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DIY LED Desk Lamp USB Powered [How To Make]

DIY LED Desk Lamp USB Powered [How To Make]

Hello, welcome to DIY Perspective. In this video, I am going to show you step-by-step
how I made this beautiful desk lamp, which has convenient on/off switch, and is powered
by a micro USB cable. What’s really cool about this desk lamp,
is that it has everything integrated inside of it, so you don’t need any converters,
cables with power switches, you just need to connect this lamp with a very common micro
USB cable to your computer, wall charger or even power bank. This is really useful if you have more than
one working spot. You can carry the lamp with often-used items,
like USB drives and SD cards inside lamp’s tray, which is very handy. The front face of the lamp is covered with
a decorative film, which gives soft lighting around the table. And as other side of the film is white, it
perfectly bounces some of the light on a ceiling, which gives complete room illumination. So let’s see how I made it! I started with gluing my made templates on
a wood board of 18 millimeter thickness, then removed paper in the spots where I’ll route
and began routing. On the bottom wood part, I routed slots for
the micro USB power converter, for wires and for the on/off switch. On the top part, I routed small space for
the wires, which will go from the LEDs to the electronic parts in the bottom. I thought I’ll route the tray for small
things too, but I realized that it will be easier to round of edges first. So I needed to cut all parts with a jigsaw. Two parts, which will make base, it was easy
to cut, but the top part was a little bit tricky, as I needed to cut two corners at
an angle. I tilted a jigsaw at 45-degree angle ant started
cutting using speed square as a guide. I previously glued it with a double side tape,
but I added too little of it, and from all huge vibrations when cutting at that high
angle, speed square came off, and I cut into the part. Nothing major, I’ll just need to sand it
more, to fix it. I continued cutting that part, and this time
I needed to cut at 22.5-degree angle. It was day and night compared to 45-degrees,
as a jigsaw had no vibrations, like I was doing regular perpendicular cut. Then I glued two base parts with a double
side tape and started rough sanding, to get both parts to the same size. I used 60 grit sandpaper, which I glued it
on a wood brick. After this, I separated two base parts, removed
loose paper, and marked corners where I need to route. Next, I hot glued the bottom part to my “workbench”
and started rounding corners. As later, I found out, even few pieces of
double side tape will hold work piece perfectly. After I’ve done rounding edges on both base
parts, I continued to route the tray on the top base part. I additionally used edge guide where I could,
this helped me to get straight routing line. On the top part, I drilled hole for the LED
wires and started full sanding of all three parts with 120 and 220 grit sandpapers. When I had all the parts nice and smooth,
I hot glued scrap wood blocks, that I could hold parts while I am applying wood finish. I used white ash color varnish for the two
top parts, and for the bottom part, I used redwood color finish. These two wood finish colors, match together
very nice. While wood finish was drying, I needed to
figure out best way to connect the top part to the base part. First, I thought I additionally use wood screws
with a wood glue. But then I tested strength of differently
glued combinations. Without sanding wood finish on both sides
braked easiest, sanding on one side braked with a little more needed force, and sanding
on both sides, was really hard to brake. Therefore, I decided to use only wood glue
without any additional screws. On this build, I used 20 centimeters of a
regular 12V LED strip, small ON/OFF switch, the micro USB step-up power converter and
some wires. I cut 2 by 10 centimeters of an aluminum heatsink,
removed protective material from the contacts and glued the LED strips. Before soldering, I connected fully charged
power bank and adjusted output voltage of the converter to 12V, by rotating potentiometer
with a screwdriver. Then I soldered two short wires to each LED
strip. On the switch I used longer wires as those
will need to go through all base. I squeezed the aluminum heatsink with LEDs
and didn’t use any glue, as I especially routed the gap, 1 millimeter narrower than
the heatsink. And this gap on top isn’t some sort of miscalculation,
it is for hot air to escape. Now what’s left is to solder all components
together in a circuit. I soldered one wire from the switch, to the
negative connection of the converter. Then I twisted wires from the LEDs together,
and soldered positive wires to the positive connector on the converter. Finally, I soldered negative wires from the
LEDs, to the wire from the switch, and added some electrical tape. I checked if everything worked properly and
it looked good, so I started hot gluing components. And after everything was secured in place
I checked one more time, just to make sure it still works, because after the next step,
there will be no coming back to this. I added some drops of wood glue around the
bottom part, it will hold these two parts more than enough, and then – clamped it. While glue are drying, I need to make the
front face, which will cover the LEDs. For this, I used the acrylic holder, as I
had many of those lying around. They are often used by shops to place like
a price tag and details about an item. To hold the front face, I cut few small parts
from the same acrylic holder. Then I slowly heated them on a lowest power
with a blowtorch, until acrylic pieces was soft, and bend them as close as possible to
a 90-degree angle. The main reason why I used acrylic to hold
the front face to the base, is that acrylic is transparent and LEDs won’t cast any shadows
through them, which will give very even lighting across the surface. I marked spots where I’ll be placing acrylic
holders, sanded them and spots inside. And I cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol. I glued a ruler with a double side tape to
make sure that those holders won’t stick out when I glue them. I started mixing 30-minute epoxy glue, and
glued holders to the front face. Then I cut 16 by 15 centimeters of decorative
self-adhesive film, and when epoxy hardened, I prepared the front face, by removing any
oils with rubbing alcohol. Then I slowly, step by step glued the decorative
film on the front face. I cut all excessive decorative film and glued
feet to the bottom of the base. What’s left is only to glue the front face
to the base. Again for that I used 30 minutes epoxy glue. And this is the final result. It end up looking quite professionally done,
considering that it was my second build using a router. I really like how two colors match together
creating more interesting look. If you have any questions about this build,
fell free to ask. I hope you liked this video of step-by-step
building process. If you did, hit that like button, and subscribe
for more future builds like this. That’s all from me in this video and I will
see you next time.

5 comments found

  1. New channel friend, thumbs up with a bell.
    Your video was creative. I love the lamp. You explain how to make this really well. Awesome work, So well shot too. Thanks for sharing.
    Stop by and show us some love!

  2. Congratulations on the idea and great video, I just signed up for your channel and I already liked your videos.
    I would love your visit to my channel, I hope you can subscribe and enjoy my video. Watch the latest video. Super Clamps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSevwQx4Ab8&t=1s

  3. Wow, your work is very interesting. If you haven't done it already, and if you items are originals, then I would consider getting them patented and then selling them commercially. Just a thought… Also, I like really your channel art.

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