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DIY Acrylic and Wood Color-Changing LED Lamp

DIY Acrylic and Wood Color-Changing LED Lamp


Today’s project on Creativity Hero is
this wood and acrylic color changing LED lamp. It came out wonderful. I think the
combination between wood, acrylic and light is a perfect match between
materials that complete each other. Now let’s begin. I started with setting up
the table saw by placing the crosscut sled and adjusting the stop block and
the blade to be able to make all the cuts. For this project I used 20
millimeters thick beech wood and 5 millimeters thick acrylic. The base of
the lamp is 16 by 9 centimeters, which means that all of the cuts are repeated.
Only one piece of acrylic needs to be larger, around 28 by 14 centimeters and
it will be placed vertically on the top of the base. While cutting the acrylic, I
noticed that when I cut slower the acrylic started to melt, so I needed to
move the sled faster in order to get nice and clean cuts. Here are all the
pieces cut to size. There are links to everything in the
description below. After I made all the cuts, I moved on to the larger piece of
acrylic that will stay on top of the lamp. I placed it on a piece of paper,
traced its outlines with a pencil and cut it following the lines. Then, I took a
ruler and drew some lines. In fact, I wanted to make a pattern which consists
of stripes with the same width, but different length. I made all the cuts
and I got this nice pattern that I’ll transfer to the acrylic. To attach the
paper on the acrylic I removed the protective film on one side and used a
tape to secure it in place. On the side that I’m going to engrave, I didn’t
remove the protective film, because the acrylic scratches easily. To engrave the
acrylic I decided to use my new Dremel rotary tool. I won this multi-tool as a
Grand prize on Instructables contest Workshop Hacks Challenge. The package
includes so many accessories and attachments that can be used in any
project which is awesome for makers and DIYers. For this
project, I attached the flex shaft extension and inserted an engraving bit,
which makes engraving much easier and accurate. Now, I’m ready to start. Acrylic
engraving is a technique that I’m going to try for the first time. That’s why I
chose this simple pattern, which will help me achieve modern and clean design
of the lamp. A metal ruler can help a lot in making perfectly straight lines, so I
highly recommend using one for this purpose. I it is very easy to use and it
cannot be damaged with the bit. Once I’m done engraving, I can make all the
additional cuts with a coping saw. All the cuts should be done at aright angle,
so I need to be careful here. OK. At this point I’m done with the larger
acrylic piece, so I can move on to the base. I marked the center points of the
pieces of wood and acrylic that will be placed in the middle of the base. The
openings for the LEDs I made using a 35 millimetres hole saw bit that I attached
onto the drill. A scrap wood underneath is a great way to protect the table
surface from damage. On the top of the lamp base I need to make a slot large
enough to fit the engraved acrylic piece. Placing the acrylic vertically in the
middle, I traced its outline with a pencil. So, I drilled as many holes as
needed inside the outline and after that removed the excess with a rasp. LEDs will
be placed right below the acrylic, so I need to make a space for them by
chiseling out a groove around 10 millimeters wide and 4 millimeters deep.
This is the LED controller that will be placed on the bottom of the base. Even
though it is quite big, I’ll find a way to insert it into the bottom. Instead of
mounting it with some screws, I’ll attach it with a hot glue only, so I’m cutting
off these mounting holes in order to flatten the box. On that wooden piece I
need to make a large opening for the controller. To make the opening, I drilled
a hole with 12 millimeters bit, and then
inserted a coping saw into the hole to make the cut. Using a rasp, I made some
adjustments. Now, I’m drilling two holes on the back side of the bottom, one larger
for the adapter and another smaller for the Infrared receiver. The lamp base can
fit 50 centimeters long LED strip, so I’m carefully cutting with scissors along
the designated lines in between the copper pads. The last step before putting
all the parts together is removing the protective film from the acrylic. To
assemble the lamp I started from the top and glued the LEDs into the groove with
an epoxy. Then continued gluing the other pieces with an epoxy making sure I don’t
damage the LEDs.Epoxy is one of the best adhesives for gluing acrylic to wood, and
I highly recommend it. Once I put all the parts together, I clamp it down and wait
until it is completely dry. I temporarily put the LEDs inside the hole, protecting
them with a masking tape iIn order to be able to send the base. Then, I lightly
sanded the entire base to make it nice and smooth. With that done, I can apply a
transparent finish to emphasize the natural beauty of the wood. Now, let’s
move on to the controller installation. The cable on the controller is a little
long, and I need to cut it off. I cut half of its length and removed around 1centimeter of the outer insulation.
It consists of 4wires, 1 common positive, and 3 negative wires for
each of the 3 channels. I exposed the ends of the wires using wire strippers
and then solder them onto the copper pads of the LED strip. Here you can
notice that although the colors of the wires are in order, they don’t match the
letters on the copper pads. The green wire is soldered onto the R and the red
wire onto the G. To check if they work properly I plug the 12V adapter
into the controller. Everything works great, so I can glue the controller on
the bottom of the base with a hot glue. I carefully placed the LEDs inside the
base, then inserted the Infrared receiver into the hole, and finally
secured the controller in place by hot gluing it. To make sure the bottom
doesn’t scratch any surface, I’m cutting out some squares out of felt for feet.
Two squares in each corner will make enough space for the controller. Lastly, I
removed the protective film from the engraved acrylic piece, and used an epoxy
to secure it into the slot. Using the right angle ruler, I’m making sure that
it is positioned correctly, and leaving it to dry. This means that I’m done with
this project. Now I can turn it on and enjoy this amazing color-changing lamp.
It is very simple and modern, and I think it would make a perfect accent in a
living room. Thanks for watching. This was a really interesting and fun process of
creating such lamp, and I hope you like it. If you do, don’t forget to Like, share
and subscribe to my channel.

100 comments found

  1. Spectacular as usual !!! Very nice project. You have a nice accent, Where are you from? Thank you for sharing and I will waiting for your next project. I like you a lot. ❤️❤️❤️

  2. I liked that a lot. Do you know what would happen if you etched some of the accrilic, would that colours be affected?

  3. Where is the video of your concrete star lamp? Did you remove it? It looked pretty good.

    This lamp also looks amazing 🙂 Quality content…

  4. Your works are so simple and stunning.. it inspires me. The most fascinating thing about your project is that you use light machinery instead of heavy ones..keep rocking✌✌

  5. Отличная работа! Но у вас жуткий русский акцент, надо тренироваться 😉

  6. I liked that a lot. Do you know what would happen if you etched some of the accrilic, would that colours be affected?

  7. Great project, you use a lot of hand tools which makes this feel more achievable even for a beginner, in going to binge watch your videos now, keep up the good work!

  8. hey! i do something like this, my plexia
    have a thickness of 2mm and i have a question for you. im not sure about it because its thin and the graver isnt deep so can it shine like lamp from video? i can make graver deeper but i dont know will it give
    the desired effect. Sorry for my english, itsnt that good but i try ;P thanks for help and video <3

  9. I love your videos, you show how easy these projects are and you don't need a fully stocked workshop to create beautiful and creative pieces. Also, I could listen to you all day! You have such a soothing voice.

  10. I'm fascinated by your skills! I'll definitely try to make one. I wonder why YouTube kept you away from feed. Keep up the good work

  11. Good Job. From the first video I saw on your channel : like and subscribe and activate notifications. Keep the good work. Thanks for sharing. 😉

  12. Интересная штуковина получилась, только вот надо бы в пайке попрактиковаться немного. Красивый результат! А озвучка напомнила как в аэропорту рейсы объявляют ))

  13. You are brilliant!1 No small talk just get into it and only explain what you are doing and not telling us your life story. Subscribing now!!

  14. Always love watching an artist crafting something cool. May I suggest getting a Pirahna or Shark CNC? Only reason it will make your creations much quicker and precise to cut. And allow 3D creations as well! Again loved your creativity. gives me some ideas as well… thanks for sharing! TC

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